Danish Amateur Radio Station

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April 16, 2016



April 24, 2016



April 24, 2016

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Rigs & Antennas



I try to keep my rig and antenna on a fairly simple level.

So no expensive towers, amplifiers or fancy antennas, just 100 Watt and simple wire- or vertical antennas.

In my opinion, there is no sport to use more power than necessary and more power also creates more QRM.
It is OK to use 1 kW, but not constantly and it is not needed when condx are good.

My home don’t have to look like something any coast radio station would be envious about, so my antennas are simple and almost invisible, good for my neighbors, good for the environment and good for my wallet.


“Antennas should be heard, not seen”


With my modest rig and antennas, can I make the same as if I had 1 kW linear and large expensive antennas, I just need to fight a little more for it.
But that is what is exciting and challenging to get a DX, maybe even a new DXCC, in the log.

I have always worked my stations barefooted. I have never owned or used a linear, when it comes to ham radio and I have no intention to do so.

All my stations, except the first (QRP/5 Watt), has/had an output power of apx. 100 Watt. 




The Shack

The shack setup. As you can see it’s very simple.

The computer is for logging only as well as lookups in QRZ.COM a. o. The computer will never be a part of the radiocommunication whatsoever.

The shown microphone is now replaced with a Kenwood MC-50, but rarely used. My favorite mode is CW. On the table you can see 2 of my favorite bugs; Vibrokeyer (in front) and Vibroplex Original.

CW on a PC? Never, I want to have fun.

The photo show the setup at my old QTH in Lundby. New photos from my new QTH at Tejn (Bornholm Island) will be uploaded as soon as possible.

 Elecraft K3 Transceiver

Elecraft K3 transceiver

This is my main station.

It’s equipted with ATU, Sub-receiver and 100 Watt output. 

I also have the P3, Panadapter, which gives me an excelent wiew over the band I’m working on.

The radio has 11 bands, 6 m through 160 m. The optional 2 m module is not implemented in my radio.

PSU: Diamond GSV-3000, 30A at 13.8VDC.


Racal RA17L

Vintage tube communication receiver.

Freq. range: 0.5 through 30 MHz.

Mainly used together with my Atlas 210x, as this transceiver can’t work split.



In fact, it is a Hy-Gain 18AV with the coil removed and instead fitted with a top capacity.

With my ATU, I can set SWR to 1: 1.0 on all HF bands.

The antenna is still on the experimental stage.


ATLAS 210x Transceiver

The radio is almost 40 years old, bought in 1977, but still perform very well.

Classical amateur bands: 80, 40, 20, 15 and 10 m.

Output: Max. 100 Watt.

The radio is now used at our activities on Dueodde Old Northern Lighthouse (Call sign: OZ4DUE).

PSU: Homemade, 20A at 12VDC.


Vibroplex Square Racer Deluxe,
Iambic paddles.

Magnetic tension, easy to ajust and use.

My first choice of paddles.


Vibroplex, Vibrokeyer de Luxe.

Works perfect.


Vibroplex, Original Deluxe

Including original transportbox and round vario arm.


CWtouchkeyer, P1PAD Iambic paddles.

No moving parts or contacts, you just have to touch the paddles.

You have to pratice a lot, not easy to use. It CAN be very sensitive to HF on some bands, but else nice to use.

Is available in many configurations, with and without internal keyer Electronics. My model have only the paddle Electronics and I use the internal keyer in the K3 transceiver.

Previously used stations.

Ten-Tec PM2B QRP transceiver, 2 Watt, modified to 5 Watt output.

Yaesu FT-200 transceiver, 100 Watt output.

Atlas 210x transceiver, 100 Watt output.
(now used at Dueodde Old Northern Lighthouse//OZ4DUE).

Yaesu FT-101ZD transceiver, apx. 120 Watt output.

Yaesu FT-840 transceiver, 100 Watt output.